Lingering on the Palate: The Ghosts of the DC Food Scene

Foods that bring familiar comfort change from year to year and decade to decade as residents of the nation’s capital bear witness to the ebb-and-flow of culinary tastes. Lingering on the Palate is a tour that will take you through some of the iconic restaurants that once peppered their way throughout the city’s neighborhoods and history, highlighting some of their lasting, inspiring dishes that can be recalled throughout generations.

From taverns to power lunches, the history of food in DC is one of many iconic establishments. Starting with the famous oysters that debuted at Harvey’s Oyster House in 1858, DC was a culinary hotspot due to its proximity to the Chesapeake Bay - offering everything from diamondback terrapin to canvasback duck. Harvey’s set the tone of the “seafood restaurant scene.” However, the seafood restaurant of the second-half of the 19th century would cater to a more luxurious clientele. The early 20th century saw the rise of the middle class, and a shift in the restaurant sphere which catered to a new audience - women. With the advent of the tea room, like the Woodies Tea Room in Woodward & Lothrop, shoppers had the opportunity for refreshment between purchases.

Prohibition, which started in DC in 1917, three years prior to the rest of the nation, brought yet another wave of new restaurants and led to the rise of the informal meal, or the “power lunch.” Soon enough, Washingtonians – like the broader American public – wanted a quick meal (i.e., fast food), which led to the establishment of businesses like the Little Tavern Shop chain of hamburger stands. Simultaneously, racial segregation and discrimination kept Washington, DC’s “fine restaurants” - the title given to generally the best white establishments - out of reach for African American Washingtonians. This led to a wide range of eateries, such as informal cafeterias and full-service commercial restaurants, that filled this gap, including the Southern Dining Room and Billy Simpson’s House of Seafood.

DC’s food history is not one dimensional, but tells the story of many different cuisines and people, whether it be Yenching Palace, Duke Zeibert’s, or Roma’s. Food, as it is so intrinsic to human nature and culture, is a reason to study the buildings that held these dining establishments - even if they have long since closed. Hence, why they “Linger” on the palate. Restaurants may be remembered for their menus, while their building is long forgotten. Memories are created in the dishes that are consumed, whether it be doro wat from Mamma Desta’s or apple turnovers from Heller’s Bakery. These once popular eateries are only a small glimpse into the hungry history of Washington, DC.

Resources:

DeFerarri, John. Historic Restaurants of Washington D.C. Charleston, SC: American Palate, 2011.

Limpert, Ann. “The Are the 50 Most Influential DC Restaurants of the Last Century .” Washingtonian, September 15, 2020. https://www.washingtonian.com/2020/09/15/these-are-the-50-most-influential-dc-restaurants-of-the-last-century/.

Menus from various restaurants may be found here: http://ciadigitalcollections.culinary.edu/digital/collection/p16940coll1